This your first time in India?
asked the friendly man as he led us to his taxi.
Yeah, and were STOKED to finally be here I naively responded.
Hey boss, I think we need a bigger car we need to fit these skis inside!
On the drive up to Gulmarg, we only see three car accidents.
Sliding down the road though well over 50cm of fresh powder, we look around in astonishment.
Theres no getting around it: Gulmarg is like no other ski area on earth.
Everything is just so much more raw than were used to in Europe and North American and even Japan.
It feels like the skiing equivalent of a frontier town in an old Western movie.
In 2002, Bill Clinton declared it the most dangerous place in the world.
Looking up, an eagle flies overhead.
If youve never beenheliskiing, its an odd experience to describe.
The heli is small, with room for just 6 people (including the guide and pilot).
It feels flimsy, and the windows flex when you lean against them.
The views are incredible in the cold clear air, and the mountains stare us right in the eye.
We regroup as it flies away, clicking into our skis in the sudden silence.
With a whoop, Mushtaq sets off, tipping over the edge of the plateaux and into the trees.
With a quick tap of my ski poles I roll over the lip and drop in behind.
My god this is good!
It feels like slow motion, and I drag out a full 10 second faceshot.
This is the ultimate pillow fight.
He sends a pillow and disappears below the horizon as I cut right.
A fallen tree appears in front of me like a diving board, should I hit it?
Suddenly weightless, suddenly enveloped in another cloud or marshmallow or down feather duvet.
The snow cushioned my fall so well I didnt even know Id crashed.
Dear god, this is good!
Praise doesnt come much higher than that.
It is just a few kilometres from the Line of Control, the disputed border between India and Pakistan.
How Do You Get There?
Operators likeKashmir Heliskican arrange this for you.
Why Should You Go?
Gulmarg really does offer a ski experience thats hard to match anywhere else in the world.
Its wild, raw, and adventurous.
It also snows a LOT.
Dry and light snow, too, known locally as curry powder.
Most of the terrain isnt too gnarly its ideal for skiing fast but the sizeable avalanche paths are intimidating.
Trust me, youre not going to get bored!
Theres far more to Kashmir than just the skiing its an incredible cultural experience.
Though Kashmirs history may be bloody, we found it to be beautiful and peaceful during our visit.
Matt Clark |LUEX Snow Travel